1860's and Still Handsewn...A Very Late Post!!!

At Costume College this year I took an amazing class with two living history historians from Colonial Williamsburg; Janae Whitcare and Emma Cross, master seamstress and apprentice from the Mantua Shoppe at Colonial Williamsburg. 

We draped a 1860's bodice taken from a gown they recently located and studied. 

Although The Mantua Shoppe of Colonial Williamsburg doesn't venture into the 19th century often, apparently every once in awhile they have an event that calls for Victorian wear.

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Many people are under the assumption that with the advent of cotton gins and the sewing machine that everyone sewed their clothing on a sewing machine. In actuality it wasn't until much later on when the creation of sewing machine loans (payment plans, etc) that sewing machines in every home became more common place.

The dress Janae studied is taken from the mid 1860's and was still handsewn.

We were taught the various stitches found on the gown and how to put in together by hand in a period correct manner.

 A mosmosh of stitches...

 Running stitch.

Running stitch and button hole.

Combining running stitch, ruffles and piping.

Shot of the back.

Piping done on some yarn.

Please understand that this is a work in progress and could possible take me a whole year to complete!!

But I wanted you to see the amazing detail on the reproductions Janae and Emma made and show you the fabric for my dress. (I am very tempted to cheat and sew it up real quick on my machine BUT I won't!!!!)

Anyway, my lovely table partner at this workshop was Katherine and she helped fit my bodice over my corset (apparently depending on the way it was made you can wear this without a corset and multiple petticoats).

And a shot or two of my fabric.

Now the amazing detail on Janae's dress.

Piping on the armsyce.

 

Hidden Center Front Placket and Wrist band and Ruffles

Gingham used for the hem with a slight over hang.

And this cute lil hat!

Apparently this hat was all the rage around this time.
Regular size hat with doll hat inserted in the center.
Velvet ribbon "x" spaced out on top and a ribbon on bottom to tie to on to your head! 

Easy peasy!!

As my handsewing progresses I'll post updates :)

Until later ...

Keep It Together Woman!!! My To-Do/Create List for 2014

Keep It Together Woman!

To keep sane with all the projects you plan on completing, follow this very important tip...

In between the big projects create small mini projects so you feel like you have completed something. Or you can break up a large detailed project into several small sections. i.e. the trim or ruffles on a skirt, petticoat, cockades for a hat, kid leather gloves, etc...

Working on too many large projects at one time will cause unneeded anxiety and self doubt. 

Below are some links to mini projects I've done or want to create. 

Patterns for Gorgeous Gloves

18th Century Cockades

An Easy, Authentic Eighteenth Century Petticoat

These are relatively simple sewing projects.

To Do Lists
I have a list of outfits I would like to make and I typically section it by era and type.

 
I also have a running list for my UFO's (unfinished objects). I try to list what the object or project is and what needs to be completed.

i.e

1905 Trumpet Skirt

• add hook and eyes to waist
• hem skirt 

1903 Shirtwaist

• add buttons
• complete collar
• attach waistband
• attach cuffs

When I check anything off of my list I feel an overwhelming sense of accomplishment. I think that has to do with having an infant and my time being limited (but this is a tip I've always used... )

I'm a list maker! 

Sewing time is usually late at night or at most a hour during the day if my little tyke is accommodating. 

That being said this is my list (ambitious I know)!

Costume To-Do List (2014)

Victorian

Blue Floral Brocade Natural Form Outfit w/Two Bodices

Navy Blue Bustle Visiting Outfit

Navy Talma Jacket/Wrap

Two Chemises 
Two Corset Covers
Corset

All of the above outfits will be made with Truly Victorian patterns. 
My go to pattern company for my slightly dyslexic reading style on typical patterns.  

Edwardian/Belle Epoque
Tan Belle Epoque Traveling Suit (inspiration photo)

Purple Seersucker Trumpet Skirt and White Voile Shirtwaist
Edwardian Underwear

All of the above outfits will be made with Truly Victorian patterns.

Georgian/Colonial

Red and Beige Floral Robe à l’anglaise” Gown 

Blue Flower Robe à la Française 
Bold Red Caraco Jacket
Powder Blue Short Jacket
Chemise

I will be using J.P. Ryan Patterns for the above dresses.

Regency
Blue Floral Day (long sleeve) Dress
Yellow Floral (short sleeve) Dress
Black & White Plaid Day Dress (w/detachable long sleeve) 
Work Apron
Chemise
White Petticoat Dress

I will be using a combination of my Folkwear, Sense & Sensibility Patterns with references to Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1

 

If I have the fabric I name it with the fabric (as seen above), if I have the patterns I write that down as well.

Somewhere in the midst of all those projects I plan to make a Renaissance outfit for the Ren Faire here in Arizona.

Whew....

Btw- this list was made way back in February!!! I apparently never schedule it to go out.... So here it is :)

My next post will be an updated list and status on completed items...

Cya soon!