1860's and Still Handsewn...A Very Late Post!!!

At Costume College this year I took an amazing class with two living history historians from Colonial Williamsburg; Janae Whitcare and Emma Cross, master seamstress and apprentice from the Mantua Shoppe at Colonial Williamsburg. 

We draped a 1860's bodice taken from a gown they recently located and studied. 

Although The Mantua Shoppe of Colonial Williamsburg doesn't venture into the 19th century often, apparently every once in awhile they have an event that calls for Victorian wear.

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Many people are under the assumption that with the advent of cotton gins and the sewing machine that everyone sewed their clothing on a sewing machine. In actuality it wasn't until much later on when the creation of sewing machine loans (payment plans, etc) that sewing machines in every home became more common place.

The dress Janae studied is taken from the mid 1860's and was still handsewn.

We were taught the various stitches found on the gown and how to put in together by hand in a period correct manner.

 A mosmosh of stitches...

 Running stitch.

Running stitch and button hole.

Combining running stitch, ruffles and piping.

Shot of the back.

Piping done on some yarn.

Please understand that this is a work in progress and could possible take me a whole year to complete!!

But I wanted you to see the amazing detail on the reproductions Janae and Emma made and show you the fabric for my dress. (I am very tempted to cheat and sew it up real quick on my machine BUT I won't!!!!)

Anyway, my lovely table partner at this workshop was Katherine and she helped fit my bodice over my corset (apparently depending on the way it was made you can wear this without a corset and multiple petticoats).

And a shot or two of my fabric.

Now the amazing detail on Janae's dress.

Piping on the armsyce.

 

Hidden Center Front Placket and Wrist band and Ruffles

Gingham used for the hem with a slight over hang.

And this cute lil hat!

Apparently this hat was all the rage around this time.
Regular size hat with doll hat inserted in the center.
Velvet ribbon "x" spaced out on top and a ribbon on bottom to tie to on to your head! 

Easy peasy!!

As my handsewing progresses I'll post updates :)

Until later ...

An Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge Completed!!! Yellow ...

My apologies for the delay and lapse in posts.

Business has picked up for custom girls dresses...

I finally completed (over a month ago) a challenge from the Dremstress's Historically Sew Fortnightly!

I'm very bad with deadlines at this time in my life, especially if its not 'mandatory'. 

Yet, I saw the challenge posted and kept saying to myself.... 

I have yellow fabric and trims ... 'just do it'!

So I did ! 

Alas, not for myself but for 'lil bit'.

I actually created two dresses. 

Unfortunately, I only have pictures of the sewing process for one :(

The Challenge: Yellow

Fabric: 100% cotton

Pattern: Self drafted

Year: 1850's

Notions: Thread, 4 yellow buttons

How historically accurate is it? The 1850's dress is about 75% historically correct. I have alot of difficulty with the sleeve attachment and placement

Hours to complete: 2 hours

First worn: Just to try on

Total cost: $0 all from my stash

Hand pleated front bodice.

Larger hand pleated back bodice.

Hand gathered skirt waist.

Waist band for skirt, basically made like bias tape.

Pinned bias tape/waist band to skirt and top to bodice (matched seams of skirt to bodice).

Adjusted gathers to fit in each section of skirt and bias tape.

I use a darker color thread to gather so when the pieces are sewed together I can clip the end and pull it through and use the thread again.

Bodice, bias tape/waist band and skirt all attached. 

 Unfortunately, I do not have pictures of the sleeves and how I attached them. It was a trial and error. None of the extant pictures used gave clear pictures of the sleeves and how they were attached. I cut two rectangular pieces and created a sleeve and left enough excess fabric at the top to attach my bias tape along the complete bodice top (sleeve and bodice area).  I then cut away the part of the dress in the arm pit so 'lil bits' arm could fit comfortably. The top hem as mentioned is finished with self made bias tape around the complete bodice top.

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To go with her dresses I also made 'lil bit' a petticoat from a bed skirt I purchased for $2 dollars at Goodwill. I initially cut about 24 inches of the skirt for her petticoat. I hand gathered it and sewed it up with grosgrain ribbon for the waist band. 

But when I put the skirt on it seemed very thin and not full enough.

so dismal ehh!

So I cut another 24 inches of skirt material, sewed up the side seams, created a placket in the back, regathered the edge and attached to some double wide bias tape. I added a button and a buttonhole for closure. 

The 2nd Dress........

The Challenge: Yellow

Fabric: linen blend

Pattern: self drafted

Year: 1650's Kirtle

Notions: grommets , thread, yellow ribbon, bias tape to hem edges

How historically accurate is it? 50% (lol)

Hours to complete: 2 hours

First worn: Just to try on

Total cost: $0 all from stash

 

 

 

 

Best picture of 'lil bit' and the only one not blurry... She moves fast!