eBay Corset of Doom!

So tight lacing has become very popular. And there are a myriad of businesses who are willing to accommodate the many young women searching for a quality corset. Or a starter corset. 

I have had several corsets in my life and as my body fluctuates with age, pregnancy and stagnation (lol).  I have found myself needing of or wanting options. 

So on a search I went, for a low priced corset to wear just in case. 

My budget in no way allowed me to purchase a custom made or quality corset so I settled for an eBay find. 

On a leap of faith I purchased this corset for somewhere around $16 dollars. 

Why a leap of faith? 

Because it didn't show the back of the corset nor provide any details on the boning used. 

I should have know.... although the corset is quite lovely to look at the lacks substance. It has small plastic 'boning' and laces in back with a cheap piece of ribbon. 

Worth $15 dollars, not really, lesson learned! 

Although corsets can squeeze you in, they are more fashioned to create a specific fashionable silhouette. 

As there is no major structure in this one layer fashion corset this is certainly a last resort if my other corsets are unavailable.

Lesson of the Day: Invest or Make One!

A Huge Faux Fur Muff, Of Course-Part Deux

So upon searching the internet I came across Katherine from The Fashionable Past tutorial on a removable muff cover!

Awesome!!!

But would it work with fur?

The satin/silk she worked with made it easier to create channels that you could pull a ribbon through. So my brainstorming session was reactivated.

A plan was devised!!! 

Muahhhh hahhahahahahaha (maniacal laugh for those who weren't sure what was going on)...

Materials:

1/2 bag polyester fiberfill

1.5 yards cotton or muslin 

3/4 - 1 yard faux fur

3 yards ribbon

1 package of double wide bias tape

Bodkin/large safety pin

So I cut out my cotton for the muff base.

29 x 21 inches doubled (cut on fold/ I eventually cut off the folded edge).
So in actuality it was 58 x 42.

I wanted a pocket to put my cell phone securely in, so I measured my cell and cut out the corresponding rectangle.

Pocket top, not trying to be fancy....

Pinned everything down and sewed it to one side of my lining (lay your muff body on your table how you would hold it- place your pocket- pin corners and stitch). Add a button hole and button.

Place the two pieces on top of each other with the pocket on the inside. Making sure that when you turn the pieces inside out that the pocket faces/opens in the correct direction.

Sew one side of the 21 inch ends to create a large panel (not pictured).

Fold that panel in half (longest length) and sew down the side. Creating a long 56 inch tube. (Above)

Turn the tube inside out. Iron

Flip the tube so the pocket is on the inside right side up.

My Goodwill find for $1.99. Slowly begin to stuff the tube. I did this layer by layer. 2-3 inches around another 2-3 inches around until I got the desired thickness. Pat and roll the tube to distribute it evenly.

Slowly fold in your edges and pin all around top of your tube. Whipstitch this closed.

Measuring for the fashion fabric. Or Faux fur in this case. Make sure to add a inch in either direction for seams.

My Black Faux Fur that has waited patiently for over ten years to be used. My piece ended up being 21x 28.

Using black bias tape extra wide double fold. I ironed one side semi flat.  I still wanted to see crease to stitch in the ditch.

Pinning every 2 inches or so I sewed the bias tape onto my fabric (both 28 inch sides). Bias tape to fur side of fabric. Make sure to stop the bias tape at least an inch before the fabric end. This will give you room for your final seam and allow you to insert your tightening Ribbon ties into the bias tape channels.

Turn over -iron.

Turn to the inside and pin to the inside of the fur.  Securely whipstitch the bias tape to the wrong side of the faux fur. Make sure the ends are nice and strong.

Fold fur in half (fur to fur or fashion fabric to fashion fabric) and stitch down the side. Make sure you do not catch the bias tape channels!

Tada!!

Turn inside out and using a large blunt needle/bodkin/safety pin thread your ribbon through the bias tape channel.

I unfortunately did not have any black ribbon so for now I used some brown ribbon that I have loads of!

Go slow and pull gently to work it through the channel.

Once finished, gently pull the ribbon to create your finished muff!

Fin!

I'm in my 19th century underthings but with my 18th century red cape. I know, I know!! But as I started to get dressed I realized most of my mid Victorian wear is very dark and the muff would be hard to see.


In the works I have a matching red flocked velvet cape with black trim.

Sneak peek!!!

But more about that later....

Hope this helps and its understandable!

P.s. Because of the ease of making this I will eventually make a lavender taffeta version to go with my gown worn at Costume College 2014.

 I have a day bodice made up and a white velvet Talma in the brainstorming stage!!

A Huge Muff Of Course, Part One

So I've had this faux fur fabric FOREVER!

I attempted to make a muff in the beginning of my sewing adventures but it came out less then stellar.... I mean it was BAD!!!

stamp courtesy of : http://classic.meez.com/community.dm?furl=http%3A//forums.meez.com/forums/showthread.php%3Ft%3D1256716

Fast Forward 10+ years.

Yes, I don't need a muff in Arizona weather but it was too pretty to pass up.
Plus I'm on an accessories kick for all my costumes.

While researching period outerwear for another planned accessory, I kept coming across these gorgeous muffs on Pinterest.

Small (ca. 1860's)

Medium  (ca. 1880's)

 

Large (I think this one was ca. 1890's)

 

Huge  (ca. 1890's)

 

Humongous   (ca. 1810's-20's)

 

And Finally Ginormous or it could be the other way around!! That regency muff is huge compared to the model!

Anyway, I really wanted to use my faux fur.  

But I felt that a muff that large out of fur would be a lot of work for an accessory I wouldn't use often. 

So the brainstorming began! 

Plan of action formulated!

To be continued....

Da-da-da

Organizing My Fabric Stash and Projects

So I have tons of projects I want to create...

But its so hard especially without having a dedicated room to craft/sew. 

I am relegated to a corner of the den.

Unfortunately, that also means that 'lil bit' can (if she's being especially Indiana Jones like) climb over the rubber maid tote wall I placed in her path to keep her away from the many dangerous sewing implements I tend to use.... scissors, straight pins, irons...

So I have had to come up with a crafty (get it??? haha) way to keep her safe and my projects organized and in their place.

Besides being a "bin hoarder' as my dear husband calls me, I tend to try and group my projects and all their accoutrements in a bag (zip lock, reusable totes, homemade bags).

So I take the fabric, pattern, and any trims I will need and stuff it in a bag.

This keeps my project all in one place and helps me visualize my steps to complete the project.

It works most of the time unless I forget to update my pattern book (book with a picture and yardage list for each of the patterns I own). If that happens and I think of a new project I want to do, there might be a bit of panic as I think I misplaced, lost or did not buy a specific pattern!

Fool proof? 

No, but it works for me.

But, ohh what I would give for one of these!!!!

Fill it with baskets and place each project in its own cubby!!

Awesome sauce ! 

An Historical Sew Fortnightly Challenge Completed!!! Yellow ...

My apologies for the delay and lapse in posts.

Business has picked up for custom girls dresses...

I finally completed (over a month ago) a challenge from the Dremstress's Historically Sew Fortnightly!

I'm very bad with deadlines at this time in my life, especially if its not 'mandatory'. 

Yet, I saw the challenge posted and kept saying to myself.... 

I have yellow fabric and trims ... 'just do it'!

So I did ! 

Alas, not for myself but for 'lil bit'.

I actually created two dresses. 

Unfortunately, I only have pictures of the sewing process for one :(

The Challenge: Yellow

Fabric: 100% cotton

Pattern: Self drafted

Year: 1850's

Notions: Thread, 4 yellow buttons

How historically accurate is it? The 1850's dress is about 75% historically correct. I have alot of difficulty with the sleeve attachment and placement

Hours to complete: 2 hours

First worn: Just to try on

Total cost: $0 all from my stash

Hand pleated front bodice.

Larger hand pleated back bodice.

Hand gathered skirt waist.

Waist band for skirt, basically made like bias tape.

Pinned bias tape/waist band to skirt and top to bodice (matched seams of skirt to bodice).

Adjusted gathers to fit in each section of skirt and bias tape.

I use a darker color thread to gather so when the pieces are sewed together I can clip the end and pull it through and use the thread again.

Bodice, bias tape/waist band and skirt all attached. 

 Unfortunately, I do not have pictures of the sleeves and how I attached them. It was a trial and error. None of the extant pictures used gave clear pictures of the sleeves and how they were attached. I cut two rectangular pieces and created a sleeve and left enough excess fabric at the top to attach my bias tape along the complete bodice top (sleeve and bodice area).  I then cut away the part of the dress in the arm pit so 'lil bits' arm could fit comfortably. The top hem as mentioned is finished with self made bias tape around the complete bodice top.

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To go with her dresses I also made 'lil bit' a petticoat from a bed skirt I purchased for $2 dollars at Goodwill. I initially cut about 24 inches of the skirt for her petticoat. I hand gathered it and sewed it up with grosgrain ribbon for the waist band. 

But when I put the skirt on it seemed very thin and not full enough.

so dismal ehh!

So I cut another 24 inches of skirt material, sewed up the side seams, created a placket in the back, regathered the edge and attached to some double wide bias tape. I added a button and a buttonhole for closure. 

The 2nd Dress........

The Challenge: Yellow

Fabric: linen blend

Pattern: self drafted

Year: 1650's Kirtle

Notions: grommets , thread, yellow ribbon, bias tape to hem edges

How historically accurate is it? 50% (lol)

Hours to complete: 2 hours

First worn: Just to try on

Total cost: $0 all from stash

 

 

 

 

Best picture of 'lil bit' and the only one not blurry... She moves fast! 

My Lil Bit Gets Costumed!

I've made a to do list for my 'lil bit' as well! 

Whether I get to them all who knows...

I do have to say that patterns for infants/toddlers (other than animals & flowers) is rather limited. 

That being said this necessitates that my patterns be self made and or from larger adult patterns I've worked with and have been able to scale down.

So to prepare I've been doing a lot of searching on Pinterest and created a board called Children's Historical Garb

And this is My 'Lil Bit's' Costume To Do List:

• Late Victorian jacket (possibly a matching dress)
  
  

  

  I have several options for black trim but they are packed away! I'll provide an update soon! Gotta work out a pattern...

  
  

  
  

• 
  

  

  Augusta Auctions 1810's Regency Dress

  
  

Such cute inspiration dresses! 

I picked up the above 100% Cotton Prints from Walmart for $2 dollars a yard!!! 

$4 bucks for each of her little dresses! 

Can't beat those prices.. 

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As a side point I've also have seen some of the most adorable child's boots ever! 

I don't know if it will be possible to make but these boots are Precious!!

Maybe if I find the leather and a website on shoe making....?

We shall see!

Ta ta till later ....

So I've Been Thinking...

Very early in my costuming and historical clothing obsession I stumbled upon the Victorian Trading Company. My grandma had a subscription to their store and would on occasion order trinkets and do-dads.

Some of their items are purely in the nick nack trinket realm (albeit still expensive) but they every now and then would have a item that I thought was gorgeous or a must have. 

One item that I've been lusting after for some time (from reading historical fiction and non fiction) has been a ladies calling card.

How cool would I be, if when perchance, I happen to meet someone at an event and I handed them not a business card but a calling card! 

Sophistication to the max! 

It would totally be the 'bees knees' the 'cats meow'! 

Lol, I know I'm mixing my eras. 

But 'squee'!!! 

A calling card for Costume College?  

 High Tea

Needlepoint Roses

Either one is lovely.

Calling cards "served a number of social purposes, such as a means of introduction, to further acquaintanceship, to express congratulations or condolences and to provide notices of arrival or departure. Card etiquette had strict rules."

Unlike business cards of today and the way they are used historically particularly in the 18th century those rules sternly governed societies interactions. Business cards are stylized and individualized to the max, with special fonts and pictures. Yet, the high ranking society and trend setters used calling or visiting cards that "reflected simplicity and elegance. Women’s cards measured approximately 2.75 to 3.5 inches wide by 2 to 2.75 inches high. Men’s cards took on a longer, narrower aspect from 3 to 3.4 inches long by 1.25 to 1.5 inches wide." Typically with a simple coat of arms and block or script print.  

One simply did not bring their calling card and wait in the parlor or drawing room, especially if they were relatively unknown to the recipient. They visited in their carriage and had a servant deliver their calling card, if they were especially bold they could deliver the card themselves and 'fold the corner to signify that it was delivered in person'. Typically the receiver could and had the right to take several days to respond to the card, by sending their own card or sending an invitation for tea. 

Either way there were many rules and guidelines to polite society and the use of this handy little slip of paper.

I'm not sure if I could afford Victorian Trading Company on my budget but this is definitely on my list of to-do craftiness! 

Sources:
http://www.americanstationery.com/blog/the-history-of-the-calling-card/

http://www.americanstationery.com/blog/the-history-of-the-calling-card/